Four tiger-like black vertical stripes on an orange-yellow body make it obvious where this member of the barb family got its common name. Red edged fins and nose add even more color to the popular Tiger Barb. In recent years, selective breeding has created several color variations that include green, black, red, and albino. Reaching an adult size of 21/2 to 3 inches, they are large enough to avoid being eaten by large fish, yet small enough to keep a school of them in a modest sized tank.
This colorful barb is frequently chosen for a community tank, unfortunately they are not an ideal choice for all aquariums. When kept singly or in groups of two three, they will terrorize almost any fish that is unfortunate enough to reside in the same tank. Yet if they are kept in groups of a half dozen or more, they will usually keep their quarrelling to themselves.
Regardless of the numbers kept, it is never advisable to keep Tigers in the same tank with docile, slow moving, or long finned fish such as Angelfish or Bettas. For a striking display, set up a species-specific tank with a half dozen of each color variation, complimented by live plants. When well cared for, Tiger Barbs have a life span of five to seven years.
Tigers tolerate a wide range of water conditions, but do best in soft, slightly acidic water. The ideal tank should have a large open area for swimming, with an abundance of live or artificial plants around the periphery of the tank. Temperature is not critical, and this fish can even be kept in an unheated tank. Provide good lighting, and a fine substrate to complete the setup.
Accepting of virtually any food, they should be given a variety of foods to maintain a healthy immune system. Include quality flake food as well as live and frozen foods such as brine shrimp, bloodworms and beef heart. They will quickly gobble up small aquatic invertebrates and even cooked vegetables.
Egg-scatterers that provide no parental care, Tiger Barbs will eat their own eggs if they have the opportunity. Therefore, set up a separate breeding tank, which can double as a grow-out tank for the fry. Females have a broader more rounded belly, and are larger than the more highly colored males. To acquire a breeding pair, keep at least a half dozen and allow them to pair off. Condition the breeders with live foods, and once a pair has been established, move them to a separate breeding tank.
The breeding tank should have soft acidic water, fine-leaved plants, and a bare bottom. Some breeders use marbles for the bottom, which allow the eggs to drop safely out of the parents grasp. Keep in mind that if the bottom is bare, it is particularly critical to observe them and move the parents immediately after spawning, as they will consume the eggs.
Spawning will take usually place in the morning. If the breeding pair does not spawn within a day or two, a partial water change with water that is a degree or two warmer than the tank will usually trigger spawning.
The female will lay about 200 eggs transparent yellowish colored eggs, which the male will immediately fertilize. As soon as the eggs have been fertilized, the breeding pair should be removed from the tank. The eggs will hatch in approximately 36 hours, and the fry will be free swimming after five days. Feed the fry newly hatched brine shrimp until large enough to accept finely crushed flake food.
The female will lay about 200 eggs transparent yellowish colored eggs, which the male will immediately fertilize. As soon as the eggs have been fertilized, the breeding pair should be removed from the tank. The eggs will hatch in approximately 36 hours, and the fry will be free swimming after five days. Feed the fry newly hatched brine shrimp until large enough to accept finely crushed flake food.
